Making a Laminated Bent-Shaft Paddle
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Epoxy Tip Application
I have placed the tip on finished paddles, but I find it
easier to attach the tip before the blade is finished. I
use a belt sander for much of the final sanding on
the blade and this will also cut through the epoxy. If
using hand tools to shape the blade, the epoxy will
dull a sharp edge quickly.
First roll out a bead of Play-doh and square one
edge by pressing the bead against a board.
Next, mark the finished outside tip and edge of the
paddle on a non-stick surface. I used a piece of
aluminum foil, but Saran Wrap or contact shelf
paper (the kind to line cabinet shelves) works well
too - I have problems with keeping the Saran Wrap
wrinkle free and use contact paper more often.
The tip could extend any reasonable distance, but
3/8" is my preference. I also wrap the epoxy around
the paddle edge for about 6", gradually tapering it to
the blade.
Following just one extended canoe trip, my paddle tips took a beating. One solution was to place a wrap-around epoxy tip to
protect the tip and edge. Epoxy is perhaps not the best tip material, because it is somewhat brittle. However, after several
extended trips with my paddles, the small amount of chipping has not been too severe to warrant deep concern. I think the
relative ease of application makes this an adequate solution.
Here's how I apply the epoxy tip:
Secure the
paddle to the
non-stick
surface by
clamping or
placing some
weight on the
blade (a one
gallon paint
can works
well).
Carefully align the
Play-doh bead to the
outside of the edge/tip
mark. The bead must be of
greater height than the
blade thickness in order to
accommodate the epoxy.
Mix epoxy and desired filler
to a mayonnaise
consistency. I use a
mixture of silica and
sanding dust. Pour the
mixture into the space
between the blade and
Play-doh carefully working
about bubbles.
Cure until solid then
remove Play-doh and
roughly shape with rasp.
Let cure until hard then
finish shaping by sanding.
Cure until
solid then
remove
Play-doh and
roughly shape
with rasp. Let
cure until hard
then finish
shaping by
sanding.
The finished tip,
fiberglassed
and coated with
a satin spar
urethane.